LCM: A Round Up

Agi & Sam

We are very lucky to live in a world where we are now constantly re-evaluating centuries old stereotypes and gender roles. Gender specific activities are slowly disappearing and we are closer than ever to gender equality. In recent years, main stream fashion has been closing the gender gap, and this season Agi & Sam explored the theme of gender roles within the home, namely that of the house husband, complete with Marigolds and 90’s rain caps!

Menswear in general is rather restrictive, there arelimited shapes and silhouettes that actually sell, and for us, the mark of a good menswear brand is the ability to reinterpret those shapes into something new and exciting. With this collection, Agi & Sam did just that. Double- Breasted blazers with shortened sleeves were layered over lengthened tunics and the dressing gown was given a makeover, and used as a shirt! As is becoming increasingly the norm in menswear, some womenswear looks also made it down the runway, particularly strong was the cropped black jacket with the contrasting full skirt. Not only do they add another exciting element to the show, but their presence next to their male counterparts is a reminder of what we all should know, that men and women should stand side by side, together. 

Alexander McQueen

If a young Indian Maharaja had visited England in the 60’s, this is what he would have come home wearing. The tailoring which McQueen is famous for was applied to expertly cut Mod suits which developed seamlessly into undeniably Asian inspired formal wear, all bearing the unmistakable “classic with a twist” which is just so McQueen. As always with McQueen, the devil is in the details, and this season the details really shone, the formal wear was heavily embellished with all manner of paste jewels, and the models themselves were decked out with all sorts of facial jewellery. The tones used throughout this collection were distinctly earthy, evoking imageryof an Indian sunset, very much in keeping with the Maharaja on tour vibe which this collection is based on. As with all classical designs, they have to be kept fresh, and this seasons freshness came in the form of a pristine white trainer, which lodged the collection firmly in the 21st Century. What really stood out for us was the use of fabrics, the richness of the velvet and the luxuriousness of the silk contrasted beautifully with the coldness of the jewels, and really made you want to reach and touch, something we will be sure to be doing when the collection hits stores! 

Wales Bonner

Grace Wales Bonner is fast becoming one of LCM’s superstars, since graduating (only 2 years ago) her collections exploring black male identity have already won her a British Fashion Award, and the incredibly prestigious LVMH award. This girl is going places! This seasons collection focused primarily on tailoring, which came as a slight surprise, not in part to the fact that the silhouettes used are extremely difficult to master, but also Bonner hasn't really focused on it before. However, the results were outstanding, she somehow managed to take distinctly classical shapes and make them relevant for a whole generation of men who would have never previously have taken notice. High waisted, expertly cut trousers were paired with embellished cropped capes and the 70’s style crushed velvet suit was given a 21st century revamp. The whole collection was completely covetable, we can’t wait to see more from this young woman! 

Topman Design

There was a time when England’s seaside towns were thriving hubs of night time activity, attracting young party goers from across the country, they descended in their thousands and this season Topman celebrated all that was right with these fun-seeking, fashion loving, 80’s club kids. The high waisted straight legged suits paired with Hawaiian print style shirts were particularly desirable and high neck bomber jackets with tiny shorts have us praying for warmer weather! Like day into night pastels faded into darker colours, which included silk cowboy shirts and tailoring with a twist. The seaside fun theme was pushed even further by the nautical inspired embellishments, motifs including ice cream, mermaids and palm trees were slapped on to everything from bombers to blazers.  Especially good was the ‘sun burn’ make up on all the models, the boys looked like they had been out all night and passed out in the morning sun. Although sun burn is not to be encouraged, dressing like you have the stamina to party all night definitely is! 

Resort 2017

As the fashion weeks get bigger and bigger, and shows get more and more outrageous, brands are constantly coming up with new ways in which to make themselves stand out. The Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter months are so saturated that one show often tends to role into the next, and no matter how hard they try, or how much money they spend, making people remember their shows is becoming a real challenge for even the biggest brands. That might go some way to explaining why in recent years the resort collections have become such huge extravaganzas.

Previously, Resort/Cruise and Pre-Fall collections were shown quietly to a hand full of press and buyers, and indeed that is still the form for the majority of brands presenting these collections. However, mega brands like Chanel and Louis Vuitton have finally caught on to the fact that they can use these presentations as opportunities to really showcase their brand identities, without the usual time and location limitations. These collections do not need to be shown in Paris, Milan, London or New York. They can be shown anywhere, which has resulted in some truly magical fashion moments. This season Chanel presented their Resort collection in Cuba (the country’s first ever fashion show), Louis Vuitton brought Rio de Janeiro to a standstill and Dior took over one of the most prestigious buildings in England, Blenheim Palace. These shows have now become so huge that they even threaten to eclipse the traditional fashion weeks, certainly they are always packed with celebrities, and the budgets needed to put on events of this scale are enormous.

But is it worth it? Sure the sets, locations and staging are magnificent, but what about the clothes? With the exception of Chanel who uses these collections to show of its ever increasing ateliers, these “Pre” collections are traditionally full of ‘filler’ pieces that keep the shop floor looking fresh in between seasons and sales, in terms of design they are more accessible than the main line collections, and are designed to fit in with a woman’s existing wardrobe. So does this sort of clothing warrant the huge scale shows being put on in their honour. Probably not is the honest answer, but what they provide is a huge PR opportunity for a brand to push its brandiIdentity onto a more focused audience. Without the distraction of the other hundreds of brands showing during the February/ September shows, these huge heritage brands can really show off exactly what it is they want their customer to experience when buying into their worlds. Here are our favourite looks from this seasons Resort collections. 

Gucci

Gucci

Dior

Dior

Gucci (Look at those shoes!) 

Gucci (Look at those shoes!) 

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

And a couple for the boys....